Nikon D200 + Nikkor 70-200mm f/2.8 @ 200mm — 1/800 sec, f/5, ISO 800, — map & image data — nearby photos
Kyoto's Miyagawa-Cho
early on a Thursday afternoon
It was raining off and on (mostly on) yesterday, but I accepted a kind invitation from Nils Ferry to visit his in-law's house in Kyoto's Miyagawa-cho district. It's the main center of Kyoto's geisha world, although lesser known than the nearby Gion nightlife area, which is both more famous and generally more picturesque.
(Gion has been featured a few times in my blog, with long-exposure cherry blossoms, and some regular night cherry blossoms, and a few pictures in one of the posts about my Aunt Jeannette.)
Gion is the area where they often work, but Miyagawa-cho is the main area where Kyoto's geiko (Kyoto dialect for “geisha”) and maiko (apprentice geiko) train and live their daily life, so you see them walking around all the time in various states of formalness. Many of the area businesses are related to the industry, and such, it's common to see normal women in kimono, just going about their day.
I'm not a big geisha gawker, but I do very much enjoy the sight of normal women in kimono just going about their day, such as the lady at the top of this post (or the one at the top of this post, or these ladies), so I quite enjoy the area. As Nils and I walked around the area, I saw many geiko and maiko, but found other things to take pictures of....
Nikon D200 + Nikkor 17-55 f/2.8 @ 35mm — 1/200 sec, f/5, ISO 800, — map & image data — nearby photos
Solid Copper Rain Gutter
Similar to the copper rain gutter in Kibune, the one on this recently remodeled house was clearly a work of art designed for both form and function. A wider view is shown below (it's the house on the near left).
Nikon D200 + Nikkor 17-55 f/2.8 @ 17mm — 1/320 sec, f/5, ISO 800, — map & image data — nearby photos
Quaint Little Street
Nikon D200 + Nikkor 17-55 f/2.8 @ 35mm — 1/320 sec, f/5, ISO 800, — map & image data — nearby photos
“Do Not Pee Here”
Anywhere in Japan, a mini Shinto-shrine gate on a wall or fence has the same meaning as a sign saying “do not urinate here,” although one might guess the gate is more effective (the idea being that even someone who would pee against a wall in public would balk at doing so on a shrine).
For the record, I can say that they've been very effective in my case, in that I've never found the nerve to pee on one myself, nor on any wall within 8,000 miles of one.
Sadly, the area is not immune from modern eyesores...
Nikon D200 + Nikkor 70-200mm f/2.8 @ 200mm — 1/1000 sec, f/6.3, ISO 1250, — map & image data — nearby photos
Modern Blight
Because that particular blight is common across Japan (including in front of my house), one simply tunes it out, but when looking with the eye of a photographer, you have to see them because the “tune out” does not happen when you see them in photographs. (Did you see the utility pole and wires in the picture above? Yes, I thought so. I rest my case 🙂 )
Nikon D200 + Nikkor 70-200mm f/2.8 @ 90mm — 1/320 sec, f/6.3, ISO 1250 — map & image data — nearby photos
Figurine Above the Entrance
to a Geiko/Maiko boarding house
The rain got a bit much, so we retired to the 160-year-old house of Nils' mother-in-law for tea and snacks, and to try to take pictures of the house's small but exquisite garden (maintained by an equally small and exquisitely refined mother-in-law). The weather was quite dark and gloomy by now, but I had my light-hungry Sigma 30mm f/1.4 lens with me, so by using that wide open and bracing the camera against something, I was able to come away with a few nice shots.
Nikon D200 + Sigma 30mm f/1.4 — 1/40 sec, f/1.4, ISO 1250 — map & image data — nearby photos
Well in a Private Garden
Nikon D200 + Sigma 30mm f/1.4 — 1/15 sec, f/1.4, ISO 1250 — map & image data — nearby photos
Moss, Ferns, and Rocks
Before leaving, we walked about a bit more, and I found myself doing a double-take when a rickshaw went by with two rickshaw drivers as passengers. Rickshaws are relatively rare in Japan (they're as much a novelty to Japanese as to foreigners), but living in the part of the city that I do, I see them every day. What I'd never seen were drivers in the passenger seat.
It turns out that the driver was in training, as evidenced by the “IN TRAINING” sign taped to the back...
Nikon D200 + Nikkor 70-200mm f/2.8 @ 70mm — 1/350 sec, f/6.3, ISO 1250 — map & image data — nearby photos
Student Driver
I didn't realize it as I was snapping that shot, but the gentleman walking on the right (in all black) is the rather famous Peter MacIntosh, leading one of his geisha walking lectures. Peter is a Canadian who has apparently earned unprecedented acceptance into the inner workings of the geisha industry. It's not my cup of tea, but I'm able to appreciate the accomplishment, because it's easy to count the number of other foreigners who have ever done it: zero.
At the far left of that picture is a green sign for a drug store. Note the mobile display above it, for a drink that claims to break down fat. The mobile has a blow-up can and a blow-up stomach. How appetizing.
On a sad note, just after I left for the evening, Nils got called away to the hospital because his little Greg (with whom Anthony was playing just the other day) broke his arm while running around the house. Frankly, the way little boys tear around, it's amazing that any of them have a solid bone remaining, but I guess it's more a matter of luck than anything else if and when one breaks. Get well soon, little man!
Adding to yesterday's post about our trip to the fire pits on Mt. Daimonji, here are a few more of Anthony and Kana-chan.
Nikon D200 + Nikkor 70-200mm f/2.8 @ 70mm — 1/100 sec, f/7.1, ISO 900 — map & image data — nearby photos
Okazaki and Beyond
As I mentioned yesterday, the view felt much closer than from the summit. Oddly, being lower/closer made the feeling of height more impressive.
Some were inspired to flight...
Nikon D200 + Nikkor 70-200mm f/2.8 @ 70mm — 1/160 sec, f/2.8, ISO 200 — map & image data — nearby photos
Anthony to Tower....
Nikon D200 + Nikkor 70-200mm f/2.8 @ 86mm — 1/100 sec, f/5.6, ISO 720 — map & image data — nearby photos
There's Always Time for Silliness
The lower-right “leg” of the “大” (as seen when facing the mountain) is very, very long — about 140m of very narrow, tiny, steep steps — so the view from near its top, just below the center of the character, is impressive.
Nikon D200 + Nikkor 17-55 f/2.8 @ 17mm — 1/100 sec, f/5.6, ISO 560 — map & image data — nearby photos
Looks Fun!
Nikon D200 + Nikkor 17-55 f/2.8 @ 34mm — 1/100 sec, f/5.6, ISO 500 — map & image data — nearby photos
Taking a Relatively-Unused Path Back
Once back in the outer-edges of the city, we happened upon a man who had apparently just collapsed in the street. One passerby had just arrived to his area, but didn't really know what to do. I like to be a helpful person, so for a moment wondered what on earth I could do to help, until I remembered that Kana-chan's daddy is a medical doctor. Sweet.
I did my best to keep the kids out of the way and let him do his thing. A lady who lived in the area came out with blankets, and umbrellas for the rain that had started, and someone called an ambulance.
Nikon D200 + Nikkor 17-55 f/2.8 @ 17mm — 1/100 sec, f/5.6, ISO 450 — map & image data — nearby photos
There is a Doctor in the House
It seems that the gentleman had gotten dizzy or fainted for some reason, and other than bumping his head on the way down, was fine.
Finally on our way — in the increasing rain — we decided to bypass the last half hour of walking through the city and hopped in a cab, and our Mt. Daimonji hike was done for 2006.
Nikon D200 + Nikkor 70-200mm f/2.8 @ 200mm — 1/250 sec, f/11, ISO 320 — full exif & map
Daimonji: Big “大” on the Mountain
Continuing with the ongoing set of posts on last fall's Mt. Daimonji hike, after having lunch at the top of the mountain, we headed down a bit to the Daimonji hidoko, the Daimonji fire pits.
The word “Daimonji” — 大文字 — literally means “big character,” both in the lower-case opposite sense of “upper-case,” and in the sense of “the Chinese character that conveys the meaning 'big'.”
“Daimonji” is also the name of the mountain in Eastern Kyoto that has a big 150-meter-wide daimonji, 大, on it.
“Daimonji” is also the name of the festival held every year in August, in which this and other symbols on mountains around Kyoto light up in fire.
The area where the fires are lit is called the hidoko (火床 — fire pits), and was our destination after leaving the peak of the mountain. The pictures above and below show it from town, from about 2.6km (1.6mi) away.
In the view from space above (courtesy of Google Maps), the green arrow at the top shows the location from where the photo below was taken, at the point in the trail down from the top of the mountain that you exit the deep woods and the view of the city opens up before you.
It feels much closer to the city than the view from the summit, being 700 meters closer and 100m lower than the summit. The ground just drops away from the entrance point, so as you approach it, you see only the city beyond but nothing up close, so you wonder what happened to everyone who used to be in front of you. It's really an amazing feeling to experience the first time.
Nikon D200 + Nikkor 17-55 f/2.8 @ 23mm — 1/100 sec, f/4, ISO 200 — map & image data — nearby photos
Entering The Hidoko From the Top
It's very steep, especially right at the top.
Nikon D200 + Nikkor 17-55 f/2.8 @ 18mm — 1/100 sec, f/5.6, ISO 900 — map & image data — nearby photos
Steep!
It's probably not particularly steep when compared with some other points along the trail, but it feels so steep because it's a direct, straight route, with no tree cover and a wide sweeping view, and only a narrow set little steps prevents you from rolling all the way down to the imperial palace.
Nikon D200 + Nikkor 17-55 f/2.8 @ 17mm — 1/100 sec, f/5.6, ISO 1000 — map & image data — nearby photos
Above, you can see two of the many pits used for the fire on the festival night.
Nikon D200 + Nikkor 17-55 f/2.8 @ 55mm — 1/100 sec, f/5.6, ISO 800 — map & image data — nearby photos
What a View!
Nikon D200 + Nikkor 70-200mm f/2.8 @ 200mm — 1/350 sec, f/4, ISO 800, — map & image data — nearby photos
Wet Bird
We've had several days of rain... it is the rainy season in Japan, after all... and this morning I noticed Aotan (a great blue heron living around here) sitting on a branch over the canal looking miserably wet. He was still there a half hour later, so I got out the camera (and the umbrella) for a picture.
I took a picture from a distance, then came to the closest point on shore. He was still quite a distance away (much further than the mere three feet that separated us the last time we met), so I was surprised when he immediately flew away the moment I greeted him by name. I guess the rain's put someone into a grumpy mood, today.
He flew up into a further away tree, which is where he was for the picture above. Below is his original perch over the canal.
Nikon D200 + Nikkor 70-200mm f/2.8 @ 130mm — 1/400 sec, f/2.8, ISO 800, — map & image data — nearby photos
The rain eventually stopped, and it seems that it'll be cloudy but not to hot tomorrow. Sounds like a good day to find something to take pictures of...
Nikon D200 + Nikkor 17-55 f/2.8 @ 55mm — 1/90 sec, f/7.1, ISO 320, — map & image data — nearby photos
Mushrooms the Size of Dinner Plates
After the baptism yesterday, Anthony and I got together with some other friends, and ended up going to Hieidaira (a small community nestled in the mountains, just over the border from Kyoto, in Otsu) to see some huge mushrooms.
Nikon D200 + Nikkor 17-55 f/2.8 @ 32mm — 1/50 sec, f/8, ISO 320 — map & image data — nearby photos
Greg and his Mommy Check Out the Big Mushrooms
Nils Ferry's wife Yoshiko and three-year-old son Greg were with us. I've met Nils many times (such as when he took me to some temples in his area to see the autumn colors last fall), but had never had the pleasure of meeting his wife.
The mushrooms were big and fuzzy....
Nikon D200 + Nikkor 17-55 f/2.8 @ 55mm — 1/80 sec, f/6.3, ISO 100, — map & image data — nearby photos
Big and Fuzzy
Nikon D200 + Nikkor 17-55 f/2.8 @ 32mm — 1/200 sec, f/2.8, ISO 100, — map & image data — nearby photos
Life Stages of the Big Mushroom
Apparently, they start out as balls, then start to expand sideways, finally breaking lose at the base of the ball, to then arch upwards.
The final stage in the life of a mushroom this size is normally to be stomped, squished, poked, kicked, and generally thrashed about by a three or four year old boy. These particular mushrooms were miraculously spared that fate.... at least while we where there.
One mushroom ball a bit bigger than a golf ball had somehow broken off and rolled down the hill to just sit there, so we let the kids poke at that.
Nikon D200 + Nikkor 17-55 f/2.8 @ 17mm — 1/320 sec, f/4, ISO 320 — map & image data — nearby photos
Anthony Poking At Something
It was a great trip for little boys, as there were also bugs. What I thought was a honeybee had an unnatural and fairly tenacious attraction to my black camera bag.
Nikon D200 + Nikkor 17-55 f/2.8 @ 55mm — 100% crop — 1/40 sec, f/5, ISO 320 — map & image data — nearby photos
Syrphid Fly on my Camera Bag
I'd never seen a bee quite like it (especially those eyes... freaky!), but since it seemed intent on mating/eating my camera bag, I felt safe enough to lean in and take a picture. The shot above is a full-resolution crop from the much larger image, taken as close as the lens would allow.
Upon arriving home, I did a Yahoo! Search for “fly that looks like a bee,” and sure enough, a bazillion links about the hoverfly, also known as syrphid flies. They tend to mimic the look of bees and wasps (insects that birds don't care to eat), but are harmless and are considered beneficial to gardens. Bees have much smaller eyes, an extra pair of wings, and big antenna sticking out the front. Oh, and a stinger.
Then there was a kind of grasshopper that looked more like dried grass than a bug:
Nikon D200 + Nikkor 17-55 f/2.8 @ 55mm — 1/60 sec, f/5, ISO 320 — map & image data — nearby photos
Can You Find the Grasshopper?
It was virtually invisible until it moved, which it did with surprising speed and distance.
The boys were interested, but preferred smashing an old rotting tree stump.
Nikon D200 + Nikkor 17-55 f/2.8 @ 55mm — 1/640 sec, f/2.8, ISO 320, — map & image data — nearby photos
Boys Being Boys
Nikon D200 + Nikkor 17-55 f/2.8 @ 55mm — 1/100 sec, f/2.8, ISO 100 — map & image data — nearby photos
Uh, Boys, We're Leaving........
Here's a nice picture of Greg's Mommy
Nikon D200 + Nikkor 17-55 f/2.8 @ 55mm — 1/40 sec, f/7.1, ISO 320 — map & image data — nearby photos
Yoshiko Ferry
For completeness, here's one of the only pictures I have of Nils Ferry, out of focus in the background, from when he took me to the Konpukuji Temple last November. It seems that we were both focusing on the pretty colors, figuratively and literally....
Nikon D200 + Nikkor 17-55 f/2.8 @ 17mm — 1/60 sec, f/2.8, ISO 100, — map & image data — nearby photos
A Fuzzy Nils Ferry