Nikon D700 + Nikkor 24-70mm f/2.8 @ 24 mm — 1/100 sec, f/2.8, ISO 2800 — map & image data — nearby photos
So, finally getting into more from our snowy new-year's trip in the mountains of Toyama Prefecture, four hours north by car (of good-weather driving) from Kyoto, picking up from the post about driving in the driving snow that ended with a desolate view at a snow-filled parking lot.
We had arrived at a tourist-parking area up the mountain from Gokayama Village (五箇山), a world-heritage site of old houses built in a very distinctive style.
At the parking lot, we entered a small building and descended in to the mountain in an elevator evocative of what you see of NORAD in movies. It let us out in the middle of a tunnel that went both directions, to villages on either side of the mountain. We headed toward the right.
Emerging from the mountain...
Nikon D700 + Nikkor 24-70mm f/2.8 @ 48 mm — 1/320 sec, f/2.8, ISO 200 — map & image data — nearby photos
( either that, or snow )
at Gokayama Village, Toyama Prefecture, Japan
Nikon D700 + Nikkor 24-70mm f/2.8 @ 62 mm — 1/200 sec, f/2.8, ISO 200 — map & image data — nearby photos
at the exit from the tunnel
Near the tunnel exit is a storehouse/garage type of building that gives a good impression of the style, and of the weather...
Nikon D700 + Nikkor 24-70mm f/2.8 @ 45 mm — 1/160 sec, f/7.1, ISO 640 — map & image data — nearby photos
The snow was really coming down. I can see now in the background of the shot above that there are faint outlines of thatched houses beyond a river that runs behind the storehouse, but I didn't notice them at the time. Just too much snow.
Nikon D700 + Nikkor 24-70mm f/2.8 @ 27 mm — 1/160 sec, f/7.1, ISO 800 — map & image data — nearby photos
Nikon D700 + Nikkor 24-70mm f/2.8 @ 38 mm — 1/160 sec, f/4, ISO 250 — map & image data — nearby photos
Fumie snaps a photo with her phone while
One can find thatched houses all over Japan, but the particular draw of these houses is their construction in a style called gasshou zukuri (discussed lightly on this Wikipedia page), noted for its lack of screws/nails/fasteners. Most of the house is constructed of a complex set of interlocking beams and boards, as if from some kind of hyper-advanced set of Lincoln Logs. An entire house be dismantled, transported, and reassembled at a new location with relative ease. Many of the houses in the village, in fact, originally came from elsewhere (which is a topic for another post).
Nikon D700 + Nikkor 24-70mm f/2.8 @ 56 mm — 1/160 sec, f/4, ISO 450 — map & image data — nearby photos
These photos are way overexposed, to bring some detail of the construction out from the dark shadows...
Nikon D700 + Nikkor 24-70mm f/2.8 @ 38 mm — 1/160 sec, f/6.3, ISO 280 — map & image data — nearby photos
Nikon D700 + Nikkor 24-70mm f/2.8 @ 52 mm — 1/160 sec, f/5.6, ISO 2200 — map & image data — nearby photos
of a different house
In the large version of the shot above, you can see that all the beams are notched in various ways, allowing them to all interlock. Also of interest is the large, unfinished (natural shape) beam sticking out near the bottom center of the image. I'm pretty sure that's a major support beam running the length of the house, notched to hook over the gable-end beam to hold the gable walls from falling out away from the house.
While out in the snow I was using a FotoSharp Raincoat to protect the camera and lens from the weather, but I see now that had I also used an umbrella, I would have also kept flakes from immediately in front of the lens, avoiding the large distracting blobs of white that mar some of these photos. Lesson learned.
Nikon D700 + Nikkor 24-70mm f/2.8 @ 32 mm — 1/160 sec, f/6.3, ISO 450 — map & image data — nearby photos
Nikon D700 + Nikkor 24-70mm f/2.8 @ 70 mm — 1/160 sec, f/6.3, ISO 720 — map & image data — nearby photos
The big natural beam that sticks out and hooks on the gable-end beam looks to be cracked in this house. It might be time for the 300-year maintenance.
Nikon D700 + Nikkor 24-70mm f/2.8 @ 48 mm — 1/160 sec, f/5.6, ISO 560 — map & image data — nearby photos
the cave in the snow pile made for additional entertainment
Nikon D700 + Nikkor 24-70mm f/2.8 @ 24 mm — 1/160 sec, f/5.6, ISO 6400 — map & image data — nearby photos
built up from layers of different materials
Nikon D700 + Nikkor 24-70mm f/2.8 @ 28 mm — 1/200 sec, f/6.3, ISO 200 — map & image data — nearby photos
In the photo above you can see silver boxes on either side of the road, and one way in the background. They contain high-power water guns used for fire prevention. (Not fire fighting, something I take up in another post).
In the background behind the little truck you can see the front of the house is enclosed with a protective cover of ugly corrugated plastic (seen better in the “Front of Someone's House” shot above). That helps keep the snow that falls from the roof away from the front entrance of the house, but it's quite ugly. A more authentic (but certainly more expensive style) is to use boards like this:
Nikon D700 + Nikkor 24-70mm f/2.8 @ 56 mm — 1/160 sec, f/6.3, ISO 640 — map & image data — nearby photos
It's still not completely authentic to the old times (if they had these in the old times at all) because they're using modern metal brackets, but it's still a lot nicer then corrugated plastic.
Nikon D700 + Nikkor 24-70mm f/2.8 @ 56 mm — 1/160 sec, f/6.3, ISO 560 — map & image data — nearby photos
Wow..More snow than I ever saw when I was there in 2001 and 2002. Hope that you got to SHIRA KAWA GO . Its even more impressive. I am in Australia BTW
it is excellent, the way they manage car parking outside the village and access by a tunnel. is it to preserve the village or because of the snow ?
I’m sure it’s to preserve the village. The village felt very uncommercial. It was wonderful. —Jeffrey
Ever since I was given a postcard showing the similar houses in Shirakawa, probably about 1978, I have wanted to see more of these wonderful houses, but never got there; so I am greatly enjoying your post – glad to see it is ‘to be continued’.
I have always been intrigued with thatched roofing, but wasn’t sure what materials are used. These appear to be some kind of long reeds, probably tied in smaller bundles way up inside. I believe the Irish huts used a special kind of reed grass. Because we have some sort of reed grass growing here,I have been tempted to try my hand on a smaller scale (like a birdhouse) just for the charming effect. Would also probably provide wonderful insulation against either heat or cold. Might like to see you visit this same place in summer and post about it then too.
“…but I see now that had I also used an umbrella…”
During our recent snow-dump here in the UK I used the deep telephoto hood from my 100-400 lens instead of the normal petal-shaped hood for my 24-105 lens (as well as a rain cover). That helped a bit more to keep the snow off the front although there is the expected vignetting at the wide end (I made sure to work with it). The next step was a UV filter on the front and a micro fiber cloth to wipe the flakes that made it through. Lastly,keep the camera pointed down with the lens cap on until ready to shoot. I think I would have thrown the umbrella away after trying to hold it with one hand while shooting one-handed with the other. Makes me think of a circus tightrope walker 😉
Also on the subject of umbrellas I have to say that they looked a little odd to me in the snow. In my years living in snowy climates (Northern Wisconsin and Alaska) I don’t think I’ve ever seen one used in the winter 🙂
The 24-70 I used has a pretty deep hood, so I didn’t worry much about snow getting on the lens (I never once wiped the lens during the entire trip, for example), but the flakes that might find themselves immediately in front of the lens that seem problematic. An umbrella would have helped here (and later I did use an umbrella, and I think those don’t suffer from the white-spot problem, but to give a hint on how busy I’ve been lately, I haven’t even looked at all the photos from the trip yet.
I grew up in very-snowy Ohio, and had never seen an umbrella in the snow. Thought it was silly at first, and still think it looks silly, but I’m sold on the practicality…. whether photographing or not. —Jeffrey