{"id":2349,"date":"2013-12-06T00:33:56","date_gmt":"2013-12-05T15:33:56","guid":{"rendered":"https:\/\/regex.info\/blog\/2013-12-06\/2349"},"modified":"2013-12-06T00:33:56","modified_gmt":"2013-12-05T15:33:56","slug":"visiting-the-miho-museum-an-hour-out-of-kyoto","status":"publish","type":"post","link":"https:\/\/regex.info\/blog\/2013-12-06\/2349","title":{"rendered":"Visiting the Miho Museum an Hour out of Kyoto"},"content":{"rendered":"\n\n
<\/a>\nNikon D4 + Nikkor 85mm f\/1.4 — 1<\/sup>\/<\/big>125 sec, f<\/span>\/8, ISO 6400 —\nmap & image data<\/a> — nearby photos<\/a><\/span>\nA Bit<\/span> Futuristic<\/span>\ntunnel on the path to the Miho Museum (\u30df\u30db\u30df\u30e5\u30fc\u30b8\u30a2\u30e0)\nShiga Prefecture, Japan\n
Desktop-Background Versions<\/b>\n1280×<\/span>800<\/a>  ·  1680×<\/span>1050<\/a>  ·  1920×<\/span>1200<\/a>  ·  2560×<\/span>1600<\/a>  ·  2880×<\/span>1800<\/a><\/span><\/div>\n<\/div>\n\n

Yesterday I made my first visit to the famous Miho Museum<\/a> (\u30df\u30db\u30df\u30e5\u30fc\u30b8\u30a2\u30e0<\/a>) in the mountains of\nsouthern Shiga Prefecture, an hour or so out of Kyoto.<\/p>\n\n

There are two things that must be said when talking about this museum:<\/p>\n\n

The first is that a visit is a spectacular experience. I can't<\/span> begin to\ntell you the high level of sense and style the designers have in displaying\nworks of art. In particular, the current “<\/span>special collection”<\/span> on display\nuntil the middle of this month, of what I can<\/span> best describe as “<\/span>a bunch<\/span> of\nold red plates”<\/span>, is jaw-dropping eye-popping bathing-in-the-light-of-angels spec<\/i>·tac<\/i>·u<\/i>·lar<\/i>.<\/p>\n\n

Photography was not allowed and so I can't<\/span> even begin to show it, but\neven if photography were allowed, no photo could do the interactive 3D\nexperience justice. The folks<\/span> who designed the display are masters<\/i>\nof light and sightlines and presentation, and their work oozes<\/i> with\nclass and style.<\/p>\n\n

When I actually stopped to read the details of some 1,000-year-old\nplate or bowl I found<\/span> interest in imagining who might have made it, and\nwhat kind of hands it may have passed through on the way to the display\ncase in front of me, but much more than that I was<\/span> in awe<\/i> of how\nthese objects were displayed, and my jaw dropped at every turn in the\ntwisty many-roomed gallery.<\/p>\n\n\n

But I'm getting ahead of myself... first, we have to arrive. From the\nparking lot you can walk the 600m (0.4 miles) to the museum, or hop onto a\ngolf<\/span>-cart type shuttle. I was with<\/span> Paul Barr and St\u00e9phane Barbery, and we chose to walk.<\/p>\n\n

The initial part of the road is, I'm sure, spectacular during\ncherry-blossom season, but it was quite dull for us:<\/p>\n\n

<\/a>\nNikon D4 + Nikkor 24mm f\/1.4 — 1<\/sup>\/<\/big>500 sec, f<\/span>\/1.4, ISO 100 —\nmap & image data<\/a> — nearby photos<\/a><\/span>\nThe First and Last Scene<\/span>\nthat we saw that could be described as “<\/span>dull”<\/span>\n<\/div>\n\n

Eventually you come to the opening of a tunnel.<\/span>..<\/p>\n\n

<\/a>\nNikon D4 + Nikkor 24mm f\/1.4 — 1<\/sup>\/<\/big>500 sec, f<\/span>\/1.4, ISO 100 —\nmap & image data<\/a> — nearby photos<\/a><\/span>\nTunnel and Shuttle<\/span>\nshuttle is approaching\n<\/div>\n\n
<\/a>\nNikon D4 + Nikkor 14-24mm f\/2.8 @ 14mm — 1<\/sup>\/<\/big>1250 sec, f<\/span>\/2.8, ISO 100 —\nmap & image data<\/a> — nearby photos<\/a><\/span>\nTunnel Entrance<\/span>\nand shuttle just passed\n<\/div>\n\n

The lead photo is from inside the tunnel. Here's a similar<\/span> one, with the white balance set for\nthe incandescent lights lining the tunnel instead of for the sunlight splashing in...<\/p>\n\n

<\/a>\nNikon D4 + Nikkor 85mm f\/1.4 — 1<\/sup>\/<\/big>125 sec, f<\/span>\/8, ISO 6400 —\nmap & image data<\/a> — nearby photos<\/a><\/span>\nSpacey Vibe<\/span>\n
Desktop-Background Versions<\/b>\n1280×<\/span>800<\/a>  ·  1680×<\/span>1050<\/a>  ·  1920×<\/span>1200<\/a>  ·  2560×<\/span>1600<\/a>  ·  2880×<\/span>1800<\/a><\/span><\/div>\n<\/div>\n\n

Eventually the curve leads you to see the museum in the distance...<\/p>\n\n

<\/a>\nNikon D4 + Nikkor 85mm f\/1.4 — 1<\/sup>\/<\/big>1000 sec, f<\/span>\/2.2, ISO 100 —\nmap & image data<\/a> — nearby photos<\/a><\/span>\n<\/div>\n\n

... but before you arrive to it you first must cross a bridge<\/span> supported by thick, photogenically-arranged cables...<\/p>\n\n

<\/a>\nNikon D4 + Nikkor 14-24mm f\/2.8 @ 14mm — 1<\/sup>\/<\/big>125 sec, f<\/span>\/10, ISO 100 —\nmap & image data<\/a> — nearby photos<\/a><\/span>\nEnd of the Tunnel<\/span>\n<\/div>\n\n\n
<\/a>\nDMC-GX7 + VARIO 35-100\/F2.8 at an effective 200mm — 1<\/sup>\/<\/big>200 sec, f<\/span>\/2.8, ISO 500 —\nmap & image data<\/a> — nearby photos<\/a><\/span>\nMe<\/span>\ntaking the shot above\nphoto by St\u00e9phane Barbery<\/span>\n<\/div>\n\n\n
<\/a>\nNikon D4 + Nikkor 14-24mm f\/2.8 @ 14mm — 1<\/sup>\/<\/big>125 sec, f<\/span>\/2.8, ISO 100 —\nmap & image data<\/a> — nearby photos<\/a><\/span>\nLooking Back<\/span>\nfrom the middle of the bridge back to the tunnel\nI'm probably the first person ever<\/i> to take this shot. Same for all of these shots.<\/span>\n<\/div>\n\n

The thick cables terminate into an industrial-looking gridwork on the\nouter edges of the bridge, a theme<\/span> (as we'll see) carried throughout the whole museum.\n(The industrial vibe reminds me of some of the photos on\n“<\/span>A Visit<\/span> to Suntory's Kyoto Beer Brewery<\/a>”<\/span>.)<\/p>\n\n

<\/a>\nNikon D4 + Nikkor 85mm f\/1.4 — 1<\/sup>\/<\/big>2000 sec, f<\/span>\/1.4, ISO 100 —\nmap & image data<\/a> — nearby photos<\/a><\/span>\nTotally Tubular<\/span>\n<\/div>\n\n

At last we approach the museum entrance...<\/p>\n\n

<\/a>\nNikon D4 + Nikkor 85mm f\/1.4 — 1<\/sup>\/<\/big>4000 sec, f<\/span>\/1.4, ISO 100 —\nmap & image data<\/a> — nearby photos<\/a><\/span>\n<\/div>\n\n

At this point one must dutifully mention that the museum was designed by\nthat Louvre pyramid guy<\/a>; in this\ncase the look mimics traditional thatched-roofed farmhouses of the region, such as these seen on the road\nnear the museum:<\/p>\n\n

<\/a>\nNikon D4 + Nikkor 85mm f\/1.4 — 1<\/sup>\/<\/big>1600 sec, f<\/span>\/3.2, ISO 100 —\nmap & image data<\/a> — nearby photos<\/a><\/span>\nI was told that food for the cafe is grown here\n<\/div>\n\n

The inside is done tastefully. Here's the foyer for the special-collections wing:<\/p>\n\n

<\/a>\nNikon D4 + Nikkor 14-24mm f\/2.8 @ 14mm — 1<\/sup>\/<\/big>250 sec, f<\/span>\/2.8, ISO 100 —\nmap & image data<\/a> — nearby photos<\/a><\/span>\n<\/div>\n\n

The glass ceiling is supported on a framework<\/span> similar to that of the bridge, and this theme is carried out throughout the various wings of the building.<\/p>\n\n

<\/a>\nNikon D4 + Voigtl\u00e4nder 125mm f\/2.5 — 1<\/sup>\/<\/big>250 sec, f<\/span>\/11, ISO 2000 —\nmap & image data<\/a> — nearby photos<\/a><\/span>\nAt the Cafe<\/span>\n<\/div>\n\n
<\/a>\nNikon D4 + Nikkor 24mm f\/1.4 — 1<\/sup>\/<\/big>800 sec, f<\/span>\/1.4, ISO 100 —\nmap & image data<\/a> — nearby photos<\/a><\/span>\nVeggie Plate<\/span>\nof exquisite quality\n<\/div>\n\n
<\/a>\nNikon D4 + Nikkor 14-24mm f\/2.8 @ 14mm — 1<\/sup>\/<\/big>30 sec, f<\/span>\/2.8, ISO 800 —\nmap & image data<\/a> — nearby photos<\/a><\/span>\nRandom Staircase<\/span>\n<\/div>\n\n
<\/a>\nNikon D4 + Nikkor 14-24mm f\/2.8 @ 14mm — 1<\/sup>\/<\/big>100 sec, f<\/span>\/2.8, ISO 100 —\nmap & image data<\/a> — nearby photos<\/a><\/span>\nNear the Main Lobby<\/span>\n<\/div>\n\n

Let's go back down the random staircase to take a closer<\/span> look at that 1,600-year-old mosaic on the floor...<\/p>\n\n

<\/a>\nNikon D4 + Nikkor 14-24mm f\/2.8 @ 14mm — 1<\/sup>\/<\/big>80 sec, f<\/span>\/2.8, ISO 100 —\nmap & image data<\/a> — nearby photos<\/a><\/span>\nLasers \u25cf Bullet-Proof Glass \u25cf Motion Sensors \u25cf Ugly Warning Placards \u25cf Yellow-Braided Ropes<\/span>\nnone of these things mar the experience\n<\/div>\n\n\n

Just six little stones that look like they've been taken from the\nparking lot protect a 3rd<\/span>-4th century floor mosaic depicting Dyonysos's\ndiscovery of Ariadne on Naxos (whatever that is). Really, have you ever\nseen a museum<\/span> so devoid of things that detract from the experience of why\nyou're there in the first place?<\/p>\n\n

If you look closely at the big version of the photo you get when you\nclick through, you can sort of make it out the description card on the\nbumper closest to Paul, and even harder to make out is a “<\/span>no touch”<\/span> symbol\nnext to it, but otherwise there are no signs or warnings of any kind\nvisible in the shot.<\/p>\n\n

Simple clean understated first-class class. The whole<\/span> place is like this.<\/p>\n\n

<\/a>\nNikon D4 + Voigtl\u00e4nder 125mm f\/2.5 — 1<\/sup>\/<\/big>250 sec, f<\/span>\/2.5, ISO 140 —\nmap & image data<\/a> — nearby photos<\/a><\/span>\nUp Close and Personal<\/span>\n<\/div>\n\n\n

Like the special collection area, photography was not allowed in the\npermanent exhibits either, but here's a shot<\/span> from just outside the “<\/span>Egypt”<\/span>\nroom:<\/p>\n\n

<\/a>\nNikon D4 + Nikkor 14-24mm f\/2.8 @ 14mm — 1<\/sup>\/<\/big>30 sec, f<\/span>\/2.8, ISO 800 —\nmap & image data<\/a> — nearby photos<\/a><\/span>\nEgypt Room<\/span>\n<\/div>\n\n

When you walk inside, and take a sharp<\/span> right, on the wall is a small<\/span>\nposter that, though it's not apparent until you really pay attention,\nserves as an overall description for the entire room. At the bottom<\/span> is a\nsmall<\/span> “<\/span>no photography”<\/span> symbol, and that's the full extent of the “<\/span>no\nphotography”<\/span> warnings at this place... one small sticker on an easy<\/span>-to-miss\nposter in each room.<\/p>\n\n

It's so easy to miss that Paul and I had<\/span> looked around and decided that\nphotography must be allowed in this room, before eventually noticing the\nsticker. There was no staff anywhere nearby to ask. We decided<\/span> that the\nsticker was meant to convey “<\/span>no photography in this room”<\/span> instead of the\nat-first-glance “<\/span>no photography of this poster”<\/span>, so we refrained.<\/p>\n\n

It seems clear to me that they don't care whether you take photos of the\nartworks... they care whether your taking photos would disrupt others'\nenjoyment of the artworks. Perhaps they had trouble in the past<\/a>,\nbut even if not, I can easily<\/span> imagine the clickity-click of even reserved,\nrespectful photographers would disrupt the atmosphere.<\/p>\n\n

Later, at the larger restaurant near the parking lot, we had another, larger lunch just because\nit had such a good<\/span> reputation...<\/p>\n\n

<\/a>\nNikon D4 + Nikkor 14-24mm f\/2.8 @ 24mm — 1<\/sup>\/<\/big>50 sec, f<\/span>\/2.8, ISO 220 —\nmap & image data<\/a> — nearby photos<\/a><\/span>\nSecond Lunch<\/span>\n<\/div>\n\n\n

It was very good.<\/p>\n\n

So, at the beginning of this article I said<\/span> that there were two thing\nthat must be said when talking about this museum, but I've so far mentioned\nonly one.<\/p>\n\n

The second is that the museum is owned and run by a religious<\/span> movement\nthat, according rumors I've heard from everyone I've ever heard about the\nmuseum from, is a cult.<\/span> I've heard that it's similar to scientology in that\nit has a pyramid<\/span>-like scheme for “<\/span>advancement”<\/span> and that the ultimate goal\nseems to be extracting money from its believers.<\/p>\n\n

I have no idea whether that's true. As far as<\/span> I can<\/span> tell (and I was<\/span> on\nthe lookout for it from the moment we arrived), there's not the slightest\nhint of cult or “<\/span>spiritual movement”<\/span> at the museum... it's a museum<\/span> 100%\nand that's that. I recall<\/span> that on one poster I saw<\/span> the founder of the\nmuseum's name mentioned, which is perhaps relevant because that lady also\nstarted the religious movement (cult?), but at no time on the museum\ngrounds did I ever<\/span> even see the “<\/span>religious movement”<\/span> mentioned by name,\nimplied, or even hinted at. Ever.<\/p>\n\n

Yet here we have a private museum that rumors say cost a billion<\/i>\nUS dollars to build and curate. And that's not all... looking out the window\nyou're meant with a sci<\/span>-fi like view of the church off in the distance...<\/p>\n\n

<\/a>\nNikon D4 + Nikkor 85mm f\/1.4 — 1<\/sup>\/<\/big>2500 sec, f<\/span>\/1.4, ISO 100 —\nmap & image data<\/a> — nearby photos<\/a><\/span>\n<\/div>\n\n

That's a lot of land in between.<\/p>\n\n

Even more strange is that the Wikipedia entries for the\nmuseum<\/a> and its owning religion<\/a> make no\nmention of any kind of “<\/span>cult”<\/span> status or even rumors.<\/p>\n\n

I've been told that the religion has three main tenets: eat only healthy\nfood, appreciate art, and that people's spirits can heal one another. If this is<\/span> true (that these indeed are the tenets), the\nfirst is well represented in the lunches we ate, and the second one was\napparent everywhere.<\/p>\n\n

I highly recommend a visit, but do check their\ncalendar<\/a>. Paul, who has been there a few<\/span> times, said that it's normally\nquite crowded, and he was shocked (and pleasantly surprised) at how\nuncrowded it was yesterday.<\/p>\n\n\n

Continued here...<\/a><\/i><\/p>\n\n\n","protected":false},"excerpt":{"rendered":"

Yesterday I made my first visit to the famous Miho Museum (\u30df\u30db\u30df\u30e5\u30fc\u30b8\u30a2\u30e0) in the mountains of southern Shiga Prefecture, an hour or so out of Kyoto.<\/p>

There are two things that must be said when talking about this museum:<\/p>

The first is that a visit is a spectacular experience. I can't begin to tell you the high level of sense and style the designers have in displaying works of art. In particular, the current \"special collection\" on display until the middle of this month, of what I can best describe as \"a bunch of old red plates\", is jaw-dropping eye-popping [...]","protected":false},"author":1,"featured_media":0,"comment_status":"open","ping_status":"open","sticky":false,"template":"","format":"standard","meta":{"footnotes":""},"categories":[1,2,6],"tags":[],"_links":{"self":[{"href":"https:\/\/regex.info\/blog\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/posts\/2349"}],"collection":[{"href":"https:\/\/regex.info\/blog\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/posts"}],"about":[{"href":"https:\/\/regex.info\/blog\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/types\/post"}],"author":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/regex.info\/blog\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/users\/1"}],"replies":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/regex.info\/blog\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/comments?post=2349"}],"version-history":[{"count":0,"href":"https:\/\/regex.info\/blog\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/posts\/2349\/revisions"}],"wp:attachment":[{"href":"https:\/\/regex.info\/blog\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/media?parent=2349"}],"wp:term":[{"taxonomy":"category","embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/regex.info\/blog\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/categories?post=2349"},{"taxonomy":"post_tag","embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/regex.info\/blog\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/tags?post=2349"}],"curies":[{"name":"wp","href":"https:\/\/api.w.org\/{rel}","templated":true}]}}